GUNS!
- Thread starter vegascowboy
- Start date
The green tip and now M855A1 lose a lot muzzel velocity with the short barrell. That is why the 6.8 came out in the first place. Long range firing became ineffective.
Saved.One.by.Grace
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Any machine can malfunction or break!
Saved.One.by.Grace
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In the news, the GOP let's us down again: http://townhall.com/news/politics-e...ll_to_give_hunters_fishermen_more_land_access
Saved.One.by.Grace
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How much ammo is too much? I separate ammo by practice vs protection by caliber. Should I have so much ammo per gun, or per caliber?
lightbringer
TOL Subscriber
Well if you looked in my gun room you'd get the idea that too much is when you run out of storage space.:rotfl:
Presently finishing a small storage area for my back up ammo storage, just in case.:chuckle:
Saved.One.by.Grace
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You're laughing but those are good ideas. Another question I should ask, if you reload, how many primers, bullets and powder should you have on hand?
It was the ammo.
lightbringer
TOL Subscriber
Actually I am setting up a reloading station now,but need to get the primers, bullets and powder, which puts me in the same boat you are in...deciding how much and what types. Also need to get the range equipment for charting bullet velocities etc.
Did find a DVD on reloading match ammo which is something I've wanted to do for awhile, especially in 50 cal, 45/70 Gov. and 308, if I can build good match ammo for those calibers I'll be a happy camper. Buying matched ammo becomes expensive.
Saved.One.by.Grace
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I have everything necessary for .40 S&W. But I do not have a progressive press. I have RCBS Rock Chucker.
lightbringer
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Cool!
I'm setting up a Dillion Precision RL550B
http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25291/catid/1/RL550B__w_o_a_Caliber_Conversion_Kit
Saved.One.by.Grace
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That would have been my first choice. But the Rock Chucker was at a ridiculously low price because it was technically used although it had never been taken out of the box, so I started down that road. I think I have enough hollow-point bullets, powder and primers to do about 1000 rounds of 135 grain .40 S&W at a pressure just under +P, and a velocity equal to a .357 Magnum at the same weight. The other powder I got was for use on 9 mm. I need a die set for being able to do 9 mm. I need several things to do .45 ACP.
Is that any more complicated than precisely weighing the powder in each round? I suppose cases and bullets can vary slightly in weight as well. Are there any other factors I not thinking about?
There is no right answer for these questions just what's right for how much you like to shoot!
lightbringer
TOL Subscriber
Sorry, the easiest way to answer this is cut and paste:
"Manufacturing match grade ammunition and other parts requires extremely tight tolerances and quality control. It is not unusual for match-grade ammo and parts to cost ten times more than the comparable non "match" counter-parts, owing both to the increased labor expended in creation and much more rigorous testing. Match grade ammunition is often subjected to higher randomized testing to increase the statistical likelihood of detecting a dud round. Match grade components are often selected by testing the performance of multiple, identically configured firearms and then eliminating those that don't perform to expectation."
Tight tolerances and quality control is the goal for loading Match ammunition, consistency in the strike of the bullet on target, eliminating dud rounds or flyers.
When I was shooting matches (My Marine Corps days) we shot on targets that had (in the center) a 10X, hits on the X (also the same score of 10 for a bulls eye) were used as tie breakers. Every match I was in came down to the X count.
By having matched ammunition and a tuned weapon you can eliminate some of the variances you will encounter during a match.
Even though I no longer shoot sanctioned matches it is still a matter of pride (and sense of accomplishment) one holds for his ability when shooting with your peers or teaching ( who wants to be taught by a shooter that can't hit the center?).
A cheaper way (but not a completely fail safe way) is to buy factory matched ammo in bulk (a case at a time) and tell the store that you require the entire case to be of the same lot (lot, ammo loaded during the same loading run) not all stores will do this.
Hope this answers your question Delmar.
P.S. There are guys that during practice bring a portable reloading station to the range and make changes to their ammo, changing powder, powder loads, powder manufacturer and bullet configuration, but I don't think I will ever get that serious about it.
lightbringer
TOL Subscriber
I'm looking for a bolt action rifle in 5.7X28....not made by FN
I did find one, but it was a "one of" built by an individual and I'm not sure I want to lay out $1600.00 for it, I would prefer it built by a reputable company.
I did find one, but it was a "one of" built by an individual and I'm not sure I want to lay out $1600.00 for it, I would prefer it built by a reputable company.
Saved.One.by.Grace
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Smart decision, IMO.
A guy on one of my gun forums was concerned with the safety of using a piece of pipe to make a gun barrel and offered to sell me a barrel of an old 20 ga break open single shot. I worked out a deal with him to buy the whole gun for $35! I have family in his neck of the woods, so I will arrange to pick it up when I get down that way.