A Visitor's Guide to St. Barthélemy
According to the last official count, in 1990, the resident population was a little over five thousand people, but, in recent years, there has been a sudden influx of newcomers, and, today, the number is closer to seven thousand.
More than two hundred thousand visitors came to St. Barths last year, and although a substantial percentage of these were day-tripping cruise ship passengers, this remains an impressive number for a community of less than seven thousand inhabitants.
Moreover, most of these people arrive between Christmas and Easter, a period locally referred to as "The Season". The phrase is used elsewhere to describe annual periods of legal hunting and fishing. Its use here, for the busiest time of the year, is not entirely coincidental.
Ethically, St. Barths People resemble rural Americans of seventy five years ago. They are modest and unpretentious, and inclined to keep their opinions to themselves. A man's word is honored, and business can be done on a handshake, though there is often a cunning eye out for one's own advantage. They keep their homes freshly painted, their yards raked, and their children scrubbed and obedient. They are fully conscious of both the right and the responsibility to make what they can out of their own lives, and do not look to government, the church, or anywhere outside of the community for the solutions to their problems. They don't hesitate to take what they can get, but they don't expect to be taken care of by far away government agencies. What little class distinction exists between them is economic, not social, and is therefore subject to change at any moment. Family life means a great deal, and they have a keen sense of family history.
This similarity to traditional American values results from a parallel experience. Both groups descend from pioneering immigrants who carved a place for themselves in a hostile wilderness, and evolved ethical practices to suit the circumstances. A New World, whether insular or continental, required new solutions to the eternal questions of a structure for society, and a distant disinterested Motherland left self-determination as the only alternative.
Another American influence is the special relationship between St. Barths and the U.S. Virgin Islands, 125 miles downwind.
After the Second World War, St. Barths was in pretty rough economic shape, and France wasn't offering any help. The Virgin Islands were growing rapidly and badly needed competent and industrious workers. Many St. Barths People tentatively relocated there, and as hopes were fulfilled, more came in such numbers that they established their own neighborhood communities, the most notable being Frenchtown on the western side of St. Thomas harbor. Their mercantile abilities, and their remarkable aptitude for catching fish soon made them an important part of the Virgin Islands' economy. Many became American citizens; most sent badly needed money back to their families in St. Barths.
It is not hard to understand St. Barths adoption of many American mannerisms, methods, and ideals.
What to Wear
St. Barths is very informal. Casual sportsclothes in cotton, and other light fabrics are fine by day, as are jeans, T-shirts, etc. (Bathing suits are for the beach, pool, or yacht, but not for town.) At night, women often dress for dinner in whatever happens to be fashionable in resortwear. Ties and jackets are never required for men.
Language
French is the official language, but the flavor spoken by local folk is a curious Norman dialect. Much of the populace speaks English, however, and there is seldom a language problem at hotels, restaurants, shops, etc.
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There are fourteen beaches on St. Barths, all blessed with gleaming white sand. Few are crowded, even in peak season. All are public and free. Nudism is ostensibly prohibited; topless is not unusual.
The village of Corossol verges on a lovely beach that serves the practical purpose of a fishing port.
The beaches at Marigot and Lorient are secluded and quiet, favored on Sundays by island families.
Petite Cul de Sac is secluded, and usually very quiet; Toiny is wild and beautiful, not for the faint hearted.
Gouverneur is serene; Saline is well worth the hike over the sand dune.
Shell Beach can be reached on foot from Gustavia; Public, pronounced "poobleek", near the commercial pier, is fine for a quick dip.
Hardest to get to is Colombier, reachable by boat from Gustavia or by a half- hour hike down a scenic path.
St. Barts offers many opportunities to work up an appetite, from of course water sports to a all range of other activities:
• Diving - Lessons and guided tours with both SCUBA, or with a mask and snorkle.
• Fishing - From big game charter boats: marlin, sailfish, tuna, etc., to dangling a string off the dock.
• Sailing - Everything from crewed mega-yachts, to humble dinghies that you have to sail yourself.
• Surfing and windsurfing - Several bays, notably Lorient and Anse des Cayes, have suitable wave forms that are often dotted with slender, bronze enthusiasts.
• Water Skiing - Fast towboats, and knowing where the water is flat.
• Other Nautical Activities - Sea promenade without a sail...
• Golf & Tennis - At last count, there were eight tennis courts and a driving range.
• Volleyball - St. Barths' most popular sport, with frequent tournaments.
• Hiking and Horseback riding- There are numerous trails to and from out of the way places.
• Fitness - Several fitness centers with a wide range of equipment, aerobic and dance classes, massage, yoga, and team sports.
